Reviewed colour correction — royal-army-chaplains-department

Royal Army Chaplains' Department Mess Dress - Female

Formal evening occasions, dinners and mess functions.

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Description

Female No. 10 Dress comprises the superfine-black 1939-pattern RAChD mess jacket with purple facings, cut with two bust panels, parallel-hanging fronts and a patrol back, worn with the Midnight Dress barathea skirt.

The complete order includes the four-pleat purple-silk cummerbund, soft white collarless double-cuff blouse and clerical collar, ⅝-inch rank, gilt collar badges and black evening shoes with a modest heel.

Specification

Gender

Female

Gender

Female

Jacket

Superfine black jacket in the 1939 style with superfine purple facings, purple gauntlet cuffs and gilt die-stamped RAChD buttons, lined in black quilted silk.

Waist covering

Purple silk cummerbund, six inches wide with four pleats.

Rank and buttons

⅝-inch anodised-metal Bath Stars with blue dot towards the sleeve head and crowns on RAChD-purple cushions; Class 1 and above wear staff-gold-laced straps with bullion rank. Cuffs and shoulder straps take 22-ligne die-stamped gilt RAChD buttons.

Headwear

No headdress with No. 10 Dress.

Footwear

Black evening shoes with a modest heel.

Legwear options

Choose the existing skirt, dress or female-cut trouser outfit, or Formal Trousers. These are alternative outfits, not additional garments to wear together. Retain any rank, appointment, occasion and pattern conditions; select footwear and fittings to match the chosen legwear.

Rank

Class 2 and below: the existing 5/8-inch metal crown and gold anodised Bath stars with coloured tops are selected according to rank; the star’s blue dot points towards the sleeve head. The crown is worn on a purple cushion for crown-bearing appointments. Class 1 and above: bullion rank on gold-lace-edged shoulder straps; the ordinary metal configuration does not apply.

Crown assembly

RAChD crown worn on purple cushion. Retain the existing crown component, product identity and photograph; the cushion is fitted as part of the uniform assembly.

Fittings & Lead Times

Measurements are taken and fittings overseen by Geoffrey Golding at the St Albans workroom, with each garment checked throughout the making process for fit, balance, finish and correct detail. Lead time is typically 8-12 weeks, depending on workshop capacity, fitting requirements and the date required.

Dress specification

Uniform composition

The articles that make up this order of dress. Separately listed pieces are available below; included pieces form part of the uniform itself. Where alternatives are shown, select the authorised combination for the wearer, rank and occasion—they are not all worn together.

Jacket or tunic

  • Mess Jacket

Specified by the dress evidence but not separately listed as a Goldings product for this uniform.

Dress rule

Required

Goldings listing

Not separately listed

Trousers, overalls, skirt or equivalent

Choose one authorised option

  • Long Mess Dress Skirt
  • Formal Trousers

Choose one lower-garment outfit. The existing skirt/dress or female-cut trousers remain available, with the matching male-pattern trousers or overalls offered as alternatives by Goldings. Rank, appointment, occasion and mounted-duty conditions remain specific to each option.

Dress rule

Required

Goldings listing

Listed separately

Shirt

  • Collarless White Shirt

The chaplain-specific collarless shirt is the exact product; generic bow-tie shirts do not apply to the clerical-collar construction.

Dress rule

Required

Goldings listing

Listed separately

Tie, bow tie or collar

  • Full Clerical Collar

The No. 10 shirt is expressly for use with a clerical collar; the generic black bow tie is not part of RAChD No. 10 Dress.

Dress rule

Required

Goldings listing

Listed separately

Shoes or boots

  • Women’s Black Court Shoes

Female RAChD No. 10 Dress specifically requires black evening shoes; the local article is retained instead of a generic court-shoe projection.

Dress rule

Required

Goldings listing

Listed separately

Socks, stockings or tights

  • Authorised stockings or tights

The RAChD tables prescribe natural-tan tights or stockings for female No. 1, Service and Mess Dress; no safe atomic stock item models them.

Dress rule

Required

Goldings listing

Not separately listed

Gloves

Not part of the standard composition for this role and order of dress.

Dress rule

Not worn

Goldings listing

Not applicable

Headdress

ADR 09.65 states that female Army personnel do not wear headdress with Nos. 10 or 11 Dress.

Dress rule

Not worn

Goldings listing

Not applicable

Rank

Select the authorised insignia for the wearer’s rank

  • 5/8 Inch Gold Metal Bath Stars — Coloured Centre
  • 5/8 Inch Gold Metal Crowns
  • Bullion Rank — RAChD Mess, Class 1 and Above

Class 2 and below: the existing 5/8-inch metal crown and gold anodised Bath stars with coloured tops are selected according to rank; the star’s blue dot points towards the sleeve head. The crown is worn on a purple cushion for crown-bearing appointments. Class 1 and above: bullion rank on gold-lace-edged shoulder straps; the ordinary metal configuration does not apply.

Dress rule

When applicable

Goldings listing

Some options listed

Rank carrier

  • Authorised rank carrier for the wearer and garment

The rank carrier depends on the wearer and authorised garment construction under the cited rule.

Dress rule

When applicable

Goldings listing

Not separately listed

Badges and insignia

  • Royal Army Chaplains’ Department No. 1 and Mess Collar Badges

Supplied as a separately displayed Goldings product.

Dress rule

When applicable

Goldings listing

Listed separately

Buttons

  • Royal Army Chaplains’ Department 22 Ligne Gilt Buttons

Supplied as a separately displayed Goldings product.

Dress rule

Required

Goldings listing

Listed separately

Sword

Chaplains do not carry swords; the generic officer sword rule must not flow into any public RAChD uniform.

Dress rule

Not worn

Goldings listing

Not applicable

Scabbard

The scabbard is part of the prohibited sword system for chaplains.

Dress rule

Not worn

Goldings listing

Not applicable

Sword knot

A sword knot must not be inherited where the wearer is expressly prohibited from carrying a sword.

Dress rule

Not worn

Goldings listing

Not applicable

Sword belt, slings or frog

Sword slings and a concealed sword belt are not part of RAChD dress because chaplains do not carry swords.

Dress rule

Not worn

Goldings listing

Not applicable

Waistcoat or cummerbund

Choose one authorised option

  • Four Pleat Purple Silk Mess Cummerbund - Female
  • Roman Catholic Plain Purple Silk Mess Cummerbund

Female chaplains use the four-pleat purple-silk cummerbund, while Roman Catholic female chaplains use the plain purple-silk version. They are alternative separable catalogue products, not simultaneous components.

Dress rule

Required

Goldings listing

Listed separately

Belt or sash

Not part of the standard composition for this role and order of dress.

Dress rule

Not worn

Goldings listing

Not applicable

Shoulder cords, chains or other details

  • Authorised shoulder cords, chains or details

Shoulder cords, chains or other details depend on the authorised local pattern.

Dress rule

When applicable

Goldings listing

Not separately listed

Braces or trouser support

This exact composition is skirt-only, so braces or other trouser support are not used.

Dress rule

Not worn

Goldings listing

Not applicable

Spurs

This exact composition is skirt-only, so spurs and spur-box footwear are not used.

Dress rule

Not worn

Goldings listing

Not applicable

Medals and decorations

  • Orders, decorations and medals as entitled

Orders, decorations and medals are selected by individual entitlement and the occasion.

Dress rule

When applicable

Goldings listing

Not separately listed

Lanyard or aiguillette

Choose one authorised option

  • Authorised lanyard or aiguillette where entitled

The Departmental lanyard is expressly not applicable. In Mess Dress an appointment or Royal aiguillette remains possible only where separately entitled, so the combined slot is conditional rather than universally absent.

Dress rule

When applicable

Goldings listing

Not separately listed

Dress-specific accessories

  • Additional authorised item for the occasion

Any additional accessory is controlled by the cited occasion or local dress rule.

Dress rule

When applicable

Goldings listing

Not separately listed

aiguillettes

  • No. 3 Staff Aiguillettes

Offer the same No.3 Staff pattern conditionally, only for an entitled ADC/Military Assistant/Flag Lieutenant appointment and official duty during that appointment; ordinary officer status alone confers no entitlement.

Dress rule

When applicable

Goldings listing

Listed separately

Related accoutrements

Complete
the uniform

Garments and accoutrements supplied to complete this order of dress.

Royal Army Chaplains’ Department No. 1 and Mess Collar Badges

Badges & Insignia

Royal Army Chaplains’ Department No. 1 and Mess Collar Badges

Conditional · Supplied as a separately displayed Goldings product.

Royal Army Chaplains’ Department 22 Ligne Gilt Buttons

Buttons

Royal Army Chaplains’ Department 22 Ligne Gilt Buttons

Required · Supplied as a separately displayed Goldings product.

Women’s Black Court Shoes

Footwear

Women’s Black Court Shoes

Required · Female RAChD No. 10 Dress specifically requires black evening shoes; the local article is retained instead of a generic court-shoe projection.

5/8 Inch Gold Metal Bath Stars — Coloured Centre

Rank

5/8 Inch Gold Metal Bath Stars — Coloured Centre

Conditional · Class 2 and below only; Bath stars according to rank.

5/8 Inch Gold Metal Crowns

Rank

5/8 Inch Gold Metal Crowns

Conditional · Class 2 and below only; crown-bearing appointment; RAChD crown worn on purple cushion.

Collarless White Shirt

Shirts & Neckwear

Collarless White Shirt

Required · Royal Army Chaplains' Department No. 10 Dress: soft white collarless shirt or blouse with double cuffs for the clerical collar

Full Clerical Collar

Shirts & Neckwear

Full Clerical Collar

Required · The No. 10 shirt is expressly for use with a clerical collar; the generic black bow tie is not part of RAChD No. 10 Dress.

No. 3 Staff Aiguillettes

Shoulder Details

No. 3 Staff Aiguillettes

Conditional · Offer the same No.3 Staff pattern conditionally, only for an entitled ADC/Military Assistant/Flag Lieutenant appointment and official duty during that appointment; ordinary officer status alone confers no entitlement.

Formal Trousers

Trousers, Skirts & Dresses

Formal Trousers

Conditional · Optional trouser/overall outfit in place of the skirt or dress outfit; retain the matching pattern, rank, appointment and wearing conditions. Matching outfit: The same Department-specific striped formal trousers are prescribed for male RAChD No. 10 Dress.

Royal Army Chaplains Department full-length midnight-blue mess skirt

Trousers, Skirts & Dresses

Long Mess Dress Skirt

Required · RAChD No. 10 Dress has its own midnight-blue long-skirt specification and must not inherit the generic Army mess skirt.

Four Pleat Purple Silk Mess Cummerbund - Female

Waistcoats

Four Pleat Purple Silk Mess Cummerbund - Female

Conditional · Female chaplains other than the Roman Catholic branch

Roman Catholic Plain Purple Silk Mess Cummerbund

Waistcoats

Roman Catholic Plain Purple Silk Mess Cummerbund

Conditional · Roman Catholic female chaplains